Alaska Cruise day 7 (Skagway)

Day 7: We slept in as long as possible before our 8 am tour. Skagway was once a gold rush town, where prospectors came hoping to strike it rich! Unfortunately, nothing more than gold flakes were ever found here. It is now a virtual ghost town, with a population hovering around 300 most of the year, but it picks up in the summer for tourists. It only gets 20” of rain a year, so Canadians use it as a spring break hotspot! It was really beautiful, with the most authentic old west charm I have ever encountered!

Our tour group was so small it was just us and a family of four! A mom and three young kids turned out to be from La Jolla, living very close to my university! Our bus dropped us off at a small center where we met a man who raced in the Iditarod sled dog race 7 times! This happens to be the national sport of Alaska! Anyone see Balto? Matt showed us his gear and how modern sleds look, describing how he manages 16 dogs racing non-stop for two weeks in -40 Fahrenheit! We then went out and met the huskies! It turns out that ‘husky’ is not a real breed but more like the ‘mustang’ of the horse world. The Siberian Huskies of the AKC are bred for looks anymore and are no good for a real race! They hooked the dogs up and took them out on gravel for us to see! This is how they train in the summer. Finally, we got to play with the husky puppies! They were so cute! Mine was named Jab, but there was Uppercut, Sucker Punch, and another I forget. When we finally put the puppies away, we headed for the cold chamber!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The grounds had an ice room maintained at 40-below-freezing. They gave us heavy winter coats to put on and we tested how long we could stay before getting uncomfortable. Even the little kids had a blast! I stayed the longest and got some fun pictures! Last, we learned about gold panning from a man dressed as a prospector, and got to try our hands panning for gold! We were guaranteed to find gold, and they helped us get the most out of our pans. Then they took us in to measure and weigh it, while telling us how much it was worth! We both made around $17 each, even though it was just a tiny sprinkling of gold leafing. I can imagine why people get gold fever!

The experience really made our trip! I highly recommend it for anyone heading to Skagway. They have a cute café there as well, with delicious homemade root beer! Their gift shop is interesting. They even sold sled-dog champion dog poop fertilizer! I had fun showing that to the San Diegan kids. When we finished our tour, the bus driver went out of her way to drop the two of us off at the 19th century cemetery! We took a little walk to see their 7-tier waterfall before reading the names and ages of the old-west grave markers!

Apparently, back in the day, ‘Soapy Smith’ was a notorious conman. He built a telegram machine, charging homesick residents $5 per message out and $5 per message received. The problem was that his telegram wire went up the mountain, but no further! Every return message was fake, and no message was ever sent! His life ended in a bloody shoot-out, where the US Marshall died only hours after his only child was born. Soapy was killed by the same man who founded Skagway, but he was also killed by one of Soapy’s men. There were many markers that showed this same death date.

Downtown Skagway, which is really the only part of Skagway that there is, looked like an actual step back in time! Even the sidewalks were wood planks! This was one of my favorite ports! Most of the shops were for jewelry, since most of the visitors are from cruise ships. Even Starbucks is actually in a jewelry shop! I visited a Russian shop where most of their goods are handmade in St. Petersburg! I bought some small souvenirs there, since Alaska was once Russia, so I thought it was fitting. I remembered to turn on roaming again, which gave me extended 3g, allowing Beau to order transcripts for his grad school and me to update Facebook. I have some amazing pictures from Skagway!

After sailing away, we were still on the inside passage. The howling wind through the fjords was enough to take my breath away! This is the Alaska I expected! How does one fully appreciate snow-capped mountains while on a cruise ship? From the hot tub of course! We met another couple from San Diego and spent about 3 hours in the hot tub. We watched the most amazing pink sunset over the mountains I had ever seen! Was it cold outside of the hot tub? It was freezing. Were we comfortable? O yes! Still, it was an adventure to run back to our towels while wearing wet swimsuits! Fortunately, the tub was so hot it took a long time to get to where we were in pain.

Advertisements

Alaska Cruise day 6 (Juneau)

Day 6: Juneau is a cute city. Much larger than Ketchikan, but certainly would not constitute a ‘large city’. Our tour didn’t leave until 1:30 so we were able to sleep in, have a nice breakfast in the dining room, and take a stroll over to the Mount Robert Tram. This was the traditional cable car taking you up a sheer evergreen mountain up to a nature center. We got amazing views of the city. The tram was $29 per adult, but I still highly recommend it. Unfortunately, the day before had so much snow that most of the trails were still closed. We took a nice hike around the mountain, got some amazing pictures of waterfalls, and had a section of the trail that we had to hike through the snow. We were not dressed for the weather. My tennis shoes were not designed for ice. Even still, it was 85 degrees out, which made it too hot to wear my long-sleeved shirt. Some guys from the Philippines took their shirts off and wrestled in the snow! Back at the nature center, they had a rescued bald eagle, Lady Baltimore, who was available for pictures. It was a great site, and should not be missed!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

We headed back to the cruise ship for lunch (why pay for extra meals when we are on a budget?) before meeting our guide on the dock. He happened to be from Murrieta, which is 45 minutes from my hometown! We went to a rainforest garden, privately maintained by a local landscaping family, which allowed for even more amazing pictures! From there, he took us to a salmon hatchery where we sampled caviar and smoked salmon while learning about rehabilitation efforts (ironic, I know!) but had to leave early due to a special event. Apparently, someone decided to actually get married at the salmon hatchery! I suppose that could be romantic…

Finally, we were dropped off and Mendehall State Park, which offered a nice 15 minute hike to a glacier and waterfall! This was incredible! We stood on the beach in 80-degree weather, with little kids swimming around us, while we listened to a 200’ waterfall blowing out pure white water and watched icebergs float by! We listened to the famed ‘white thunder’, which is the sound a glacier makes when chunks break off. It really sounds like thunder! No National Geographic special could ever compare!

On our way back to the bus, we stopped by the visitor’s center where we could touch a 200-year-old block of ice, learn about how glaciers were formed, and admire local taxidermists (hehe). Beau used their telescopes (free to use!) and found a mother and baby mountain goat running down the mcliff above the waterfall! We did not get enough time to spend there. If a family had kids, I might recommend taking a shuttle straight to the glacier park and spend most of the day on the beach and at the visitor’s center!

Making it back to Juneau, I forgot that I had turned off my phone’s roaming, so I couldn’t figure out why I had no service! We found a place with free Wi-Fi in downtown Juneau at a local bar. We were kicked out of the downstairs part, because it was apparently reserved for betting on the fight. Upstairs was more like a pool hall with bar service and had free Wi-Fi, which allowed me to update Facebook.

By the end of the day, we were too tired to move. We ate at the buffet and retired early.

Alaska Cruise day 5 (Ketchikan)

Day 5: Time change! New time zone allowed us to sleep in one extra hour! Still, up at the new 5:30 for breakfast buffet and out to meet our guide! We had a lovely local woman take us to Potlatch Park, a native village with totem pole carvings. We met an expert carver, saw replicas of native housing, saw an antique car collection, and even saw a wild bald eagle! He is an adolescent who hasn’t ‘balded’ yet. We picked up a few touristy things in their gift shop.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Next, we went to a salmon hatchery that also had a bald eagle rescue! We saw a lovely couple of rescued ladies who can’t be returned to the wild. One was taken down after flying into electric wire, the other broke her wing in a fishing net. They started yelling at each other, which looked pretty cool. We learned about the different species of salmon, and what they were doing to help restore the wild salmon population.

Ketchikan is an adorable little town of about 14,000 residents. The average July temperature is 58 degrees F, with annual rainfall of about 13 feet. We happened to make it on the hottest and sunniest day of the year for them! We walked all around the downtown area, checking out many of their (mostly touristy) shops. Next time we visit, we will have to check out their world-famous lumberjack show, but we didn’t have time for that today. I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had ‘extended service’ for Verizon! Even limited 3G! Unfortunately, cruises have not yet jumped on the bandwagon of free Wi-Fi. It costs about $0.79/minute at either their Internet café or on our laptops in our rooms.

Later, we enjoyed a late afternoon tea and a dance show before enjoying a late dinner in the restaurant. We ended up sitting at 9:30 and served about 10, but there was still full sun with a perfect view of the nearby islands floating in the Pacific. It was Italian night, so we enjoyed an assortment of Italian dishes and many courses. For dessert, I got a delicious almond-honey gelato. They had a special tonight of $5 for a Limóncello shot with a free souvenir Princess shot glass! We also decided to purchase some of their candid photo prints. They were expensive, about $20 per page, but they looked so good, it would cost much more than that for a comparable sitting fee. Who knows when I will look that nice again!

Overall, it was a great day, and I look forward to our adventures tomorrow in Juneau.

 

Alaska Cruise day 4 (at sea)

Day 4: We slept in as late as possible before getting up for a breakfast buffet. Our steward, Patrick, placed ‘congratulations’ balloons on our door showing that we were graduating. We took another nap after breakfast to make up for the weeks of no sleep preparing for finals and my party and Disneyland. We woke up in time for afternoon tea, a treat that I did NOT want to miss! We were sat at a table for 12 with lovely sandwiches and scones. We made friends with one of the families at the table, who were made up of Cubans, Nicaraguans, and Italians, so we had plenty to talk about! I now know how to travel to Cuba, and even got contact information for a ‘buddy in LA’ who does charter flights to Cuba. Apparently, Cuba actually places a card in your passport and stamps the card, so no one will know by just looking at your passport that you ever entered the country! Now, why can’t Israel do that too? They suggested I get two passports so that I can keep the ‘objectionable’ stamps in one while traveling with the other to countries that might give me hassle with having certain stamps. I’m not sure how legal that is, but worth considering in the future.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Tonight was formal night, so we had to run to our room after tea to dress up for our 5:30 reservation (the only one available). We were probably the nicest dressed young people on the ship. We were sat at a table for 6 with a very interesting elderly couple who decided to retire on a cruise ship. They have taken over 250 cruises and had been in the same cabin for a month already. It is their second home. They say the cruise ship pays them more in perks than social security, pension, and retirement altogether! They have permanent reservations at the same table and insist that they get four different guests every night. In fact, the last maître di made the mistake of reserving the same four guests to their table for the length of the cruise, and they spoke to the headwaiter and got him fired! These people don’t mess around!

We got to do the champagne fountain and got several formal pictures of us in our fine dress, but probably won’t buy any of their photos. We went to a comedy act in the theater and bought some drinks (I got a no-jito) receiving numerous comments on how nice we were dressed. The older crowd really appreciated that at least some young people knew how to dress up for formal night. Once we were done with the show, we ran back to the room and got out of our fancy shoes as fast as possible. It was so nice to get back into normal clothes even though I really liked the feeling of being so glamorous! Funny thing was, even though we had been eating all day, we were still hungry! We ran to the top deck and grabbed pizza before sneaking back into the buffet to grab more fruit. We have to keep our strength up for Ketchikan tomorrow!

Alaskan Cruise Days 1 and 2 (departing to Vancouver)

Day 1: after an amazing graduation party with friends and family, I stayed at the Best Western near Disneyland with Beau and his family. His mother is a hard-core Disney fan, so she had us all up at 5:30 AM for breakfast and to be there at the opening of the park. I have never been to Disneyland at the opening, but we made it on every ride before lunch. While at the park, his boss called him requesting a last-minute write-up (right before a 2-week vacation). We had to leave for him to work on it while his parents stayed for the fireworks. He, of course, had to finish it before we had to get up at 5 for LAX.

;

Day 2: We arrived at LAX early without a hitch. Thankfully we checked in the night before and printed our passes so we were first in line and very quick. The flight was quick and relaxing, and the arrival in Vancouver was lovely. The airport has beautiful native artwork, a small pond upstairs with a recreated canoe, and lovely fountains. It was beautiful. The line for customs wasn’t terrible, but still tiring. Unfortunately, our customs inspector was a surly lady with a bad attitude.

“What are you doing in Vancouver for 2 days?”

“we are taking a cruise to Alaska”

“who is paying for this trip?”

“we are…”

“how?”

“excuse me?”

“what do you do?”

“we just graduated…”

“if you just graduated, how can you afford a cruise?”

“um, we saved?”

“how did you save? What do you do?”

Mental note: when dealing with customs, always have answers ready and sound confident. Now I can understand what it is like for foreigners to enter America.

When our luggage arrived, Beau’s wheel was broken off. After trying to secure it, he could barely drag the bag. I told him to pack lighter before we left, but oh well. Thus, our affordable plans to use the Skytrain were voided, leaving us with a $40 cab ride. Fortunately our driver took US dollars. Our hotel was very reasonably priced, near Chinatown with prostitutes on the corner during the evening. Even still, the homeless mostly kept to themselves and left us alone.
The Patricia was clean enough with helpful staff, just very small rooms with no view and a less-than-comfortable bed. We booked the cheapest room they had so it was expected. For lunch, we grabbed Pho and a place across the street (the hotel’s pub was not really what we had in mind after a day of travel). We found a cheap suitcase in Chinatown for $40 that was even larger than his old suitcase (unfortunately, the wheels are already starting to bend in). Vancouver has a beautiful downtown but is very expensive. Sales tax was a big hit to the budget.

Russian Georgian Restaurant Pomegranate

I go to UCSD, so am always looking for fun places to go in San Diego. Also, I had not had anything resembling “Russian Food” since I returned from the Motherland in 2006. That is why I was so excited when my boyfriend found this place. Pomegranate, a Russian-Georgian Restaurant right in San Diego! The place is very cozy, it is not a ‘decorative fancy restaurant’. It is more like a hole-in-the-wall authentic cuisine with heart and soul! I had a serving of Borscht, since I have not been able to taste the sweet delicacy for 6 years now! I also ordered a glass of Samovar-style tea, served with a shot of berry syrup on the side to sweeten to your taste!

My boyfriend got a lamb dish and a Georgian soda. The meat was incredible! The soda was delicious! Funny thing is: we read the ingredients and saw very little sugar. Upon further analysis, I saw a main ingredient was “fragrance”. I tried breathing out while I sipped it and noticed that there was hardly any flavor to it by itself! Our sense of sweetness came from our noses! What a great ‘diet’ technique to avoid fake sweeteners! I wonder the effects of drinking ‘fragrance’.

I HIGHLY recommend this restaurant to anyone in the SD area. There is authentic Russian (and Georgian) charm exuding the entire place! Great place for families, friends, and couples looking for someplace fun and different!

Russian Georgian Restaurant Pomegranate.

How to: Travel Alone (what to bring and what to do!)

What to bring:

  • 3 copies of passport (always cary one copy safely in your pocket)
  • 1+ copy of each credit card
  • credit card (safer than debit)
  • original passport (or whatever ID required for the country)
  • the equivalent of about $50-100 USD cash in a money belt on your person
  • money belt (avoid getting in and out of it in public- it is supposed to be secret!)
  • detailed directions to your destination, including all train stops, bus stops, and ticket shops
  • emergency phone (not absolutely required but a REALLY good idea)
  • local dictionary (not required but useful when asking for directions)
  • walking map for how you get from the train station to your destination

What to do:

  • pack as light as possible
  • do not have any valuables visible
  • blend in (avoid looking like a tourist as much as possible- at least look like a ‘local tourist’)
  • eat in safe places
  • avoid large crowds while carrying luggage
  • do NOT carry anything in your back pocket
  • buy luggage locks and USE THEM!
  • for smaller zippers, use plastic zip ties (use nail cutters to snip them off- just don’t lock those in a pocket you zip-tied)
  • NEVER leave your luggage, even for a minute
  • never carry more than you can easily carry yourself!
  • travel in daylight- avoid arriving at night (if you must, walk straight to your hotel)
  • walk with your eyes ahead (looking down or around or looking nervous makes you a target)
  • get to know the locals and ask advice, but be careful with who you trust
  • dress appropriately (especially in conservative countries… but anywhere, be careful with shorts!)
  • do NOT get drunk when you are alone!
  • keep in touch with someone at home (in case you don’t make it to your destination)
  • register with Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (or equivalent if you are not American www.step.state.gov/step/)
  • trust your instincts! AND HAVE FUN!

Pennsylvania German: a dying language?

An Amish Family

Pennsylvania German, or Pennsilfaanisch Deitsch, is a variety of West Central German, spoken by at least 83,700 in the United States, with numbers that are increasing. The ethnic population estimate is at least 300,000[1]. Blending of several German dialects, primarily Rhenish Palatinate (Pfalzer) German, with syntactic elements of High German and English, it is largely incomprehensible to modern Germans. It was brought to America by speakers from Southern Germany, Eastern France, and Switzerland. Today, speakers are largely found in communities of Amish and Mennonites in America and Canada. There is also a group of Mennonites who fled America in the 20th century to South America in order to maintain their unique culture. This community speaks a very distinct dialect of Pennsylvanish called Plautdietsch[2].

There are multiple varieties of Pennsylvania German. For example, the orthographies differ between speakers from Ohio and Pennsylvania. They are a plain community, not shifting to English due to cultural reasons. Part of their culture is the refusal of modernization. Preschoolers are almost exclusively monolingual, while almost every adult is bilingual in Modern English. Their language does evolve, however, by integrating some English words, such as “bet”, as in “Ich bet, du kannscht Deitsch schwetze” (I bet you can speak German), or “depend”, as in “Es dependt en wennig, waer du bischt” (it depends somewhat on who you are). Other words include “tschaepp” for “chap” or “guy”; and “tschumbe” for “to jump”. Today, many speakers will use Pennsylvania German words for the smaller numerals and English for larger and more complex numerals, like “$27,599.”[3]

There are fears of loosing Pennsylvania German, since many of the older speakers have grandchildren who only speak English. The language was once a regional dialect, but now seems to be largely contained within religious communities. It is associated with “horse-and-buggy” Old-Order Mennonite and Amish. To counter this, Kutztown University offers a minor program in Pennsylvania German studies[4] as well as a BA in German Studies[5] with a focus on PA German Culture in America[6].

The numbers of speakers of Pennsylvania Dutch/German are unclear. Some suggest there might be over 300,000 speakers today, taking into account the number of Old Order Amish at over 200,000 and the number of Old-Order Mennonite in the 10s of thousands. There are also some Pennsylvania German speakers who are neither Amish nor Mennonite. One reason why the numbers of speakers are increasing is the fact that the Amish population doubles every 20 years. Ethnologue puts the number at around 83,700 speakers, based on the 2000 census records. It is inaccurate to take records from the Census, however, since the 2000 census does not have a category for Pennsylvania German under languages. Thus, many speakers simply put that they spoke German or English. Further, in Anabaptist churches, including Amish and Mennonite, they only consider baptized members to belong to the group, meaning that only adults around 25 years or older will be counted as belonging to the category[7]. That is, an Amish church might claim to only have 20 members, which means that there are only 20 “Amish” in the community. They ignore in their count the 40-60 children who also live in the community and attend church every Sunday.

Money and Finances While Traveling Abroad

In preparation for a longer post on this topic, what have other people done with finances while abroad? Do you want to see something in particular? What credit cards do you prefer? Do you open an overseas checking account for longer stays? Do you have experience with this? How about online banking? How do you prefer to get your foreign currency? Do you use traveler’s checks? Stay tuned! More to come!